Edna Lewis was one of the very first African-American female chefs and one of the very, very first American chefs to embrace the use of locally-grown, locally-sourced, fresh, seasonal ingredients in her recipes and restaurants and the celebration of seasonal, regional food as a distinct American cuisine. The Bogart Library has two great books about and by Edna Lewis: Bring Me Some Apples and I’ll Make You a Pie by Robbin Gurley ( a picture book biography) and the wonderful new edition of the cookbook In Pursuit of Flavor by Edna Lewis. The recipes below are from In Pursuit of Flavor. Enjoy! Enjoy! I hope you place these on hold or drop by soon to check these great titles out. Don’t forget to also take a look at Pies From Nowhere: How Georgia Gilmore Sustained the Montgomery Bus Boycott by Dee Romito. This great book also has yummy recipes.
Two Recipes from In Pursuit of Flavor
Tyler Pie
Ms. Edna describes this as an everyday Southern pie, made using everyday ingredients during the off-season when fruits or berries weren’t available and the larder was empty of home-preserved ingredients. It’s a Virginia version of the common Chess Pie. Yummy!
Ingredients:
8 inch pie pastry, preferably Lard Pastry made from Edna Lewis’s recipe, but purchased nine inch deep dish or regular refrigerated or defrosted frozen pastry okay (That’s Ms. Donna’s note!)
2 eggs, 3/4 cup sugar, 1 teaspoon flour, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/2 (one stick) unsalted butter, “melted but not quite liquid”, 1 teaspoon lemon extract, 1 teaspoon vanilla extract, 1 cup milk (at room temperature), 1/2 cup grated coconut (freshly grated preferred).
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Line a pie pan with the pastry. Set aside. Beat the eggs, then add the sugar mixed with the flour and salt. Mix well and add the butter and the extracts. Stir thoroughly and pour in the milk. Mix well and then add the grated coconut. Pour the mixture into the pastry lined pan, seeing to it that the coconut is evenly spread throughout the custard. Bake in the preheated oven at 350 30-35 minutes until the pie is set and golden brown. (Recipe from In Pursuit of Flavor. Edna Lewis. 2019 edition. Foreword by Mashama Bailey. Alfred A. Knopf. New York. 2019)
Ms. Donna’s Notes: “This pie is GOOD! I added a little lemon & orange rind to the mixture to brighten the pie just a tad. I made the recipe twice, once with the coconut, using whole buttermilk and one without, using whole “sweet” milk. Both were delicious, but the one without coconut took a little longer to cook. Pay close attention to how the pie smells as it cooks. If you’re not sure about how hot your oven really gets, the sense of smell is a great indicator of when something is approaching “done.” The pie is “set” when it only jiggles slightly in the middle. It will continue to thicken slightly as it cools.”
Small Cakes
Ms. Edna describes this recipe as a “batter that is very, very short, which means they have lots of shortening and no leavener.” You will notice that the recipe calls for NO milk or other liquid and NO leavening such as baking powder or baking soda. These cakes taste just like the richest, most delectable shortbread cookies. The ingredients would have been easily available to most cooks in the past. I seldom cook or bake with butter, but when I do, I use a domestic, organic butter that tastes like the butter my mother purchased from neighbors when I was a child. The brand is Challenge Butter. I think Ms. Edna would agree that it’s the close in flavor to the locally sourced butter she was able to obtain for her restaurants. Ms. Kay suggests you use Kerrygold Irish butter if you wish to truly experience the flavor of what farm butter really should taste like!
Ingredients:
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, 1/4 cup granulated sugar, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 rounded teaspoon ginger. Optional: Confectioners’ sugar (to sprinkle over the cakes while they are cooling).
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Put all the ingredients, except the confectioners’ sugar, into a mixing bowl. Blend until the mixture becomes ivory colored but do not overblend. This is a light batter and it is raised just by the power of the mixing. Take care not to overmix-as the batter warms up during the mixing, it softens and can make the dough too soft. If you don’t have a mixer, beat by hand until the dough becomes light in texture. After the dough is well mixed, butter 24 small muffin tins and spoon the dough into them, filling each three- fourths full. Put the tins in the oven and bake for 15-20 minutes, until the cakes are light brown on top. Remove the cakes from the oven and let rest awhile, then turn them onto a wire rack. When cold, dust with confectioners’ sugar if you like, or you may serve them as they are. Store in a closed tin. (Recipe from In Pursuit of Flavor. Edna Lewis. 2019 edition. Foreword by Mashama Bailey. Alfred A. Knopf. New York. 2019)
Ms. Donna’s Notes: These are beyond delicious. I halved the recipe, and still had plenty of dough left over. I used a cast-iron six cup muffin skillet, so the cakes were slightly larger than the original recipe called for. The cast-iron pan was well-seasoned, so nothing stuck to the pan, but I had to wait for a long time for the cast iron to cool down enough to remove the cakes. Handle these gently. They are beautiful, but fragile. Next time I make these, I’ll make sure the butter is chilled, but almost room temperature before mixing. My butter was very cold and I had to mix a long time to incorporate the flour and butter together. I scooped the dough into the cups, as instructed, but used the back of a teaspoon to press the dough down and form it. Unbelievably good alone with a glass of cold buttermilk, milk or tea! I’m sure they’re delicious with fruit & whipped cream, too.